Kumano Kodo Trail – “Japanese Camino” – Self-Guided TREK (Partly Inclusive)

Your pilgrimage begins with a scenic rail journey from Kyoto or Osaka to Kii-Tanabe, the coastal gateway to the Kii Peninsula. Take in the North Pacific views before boarding a local bus for a 40-minute ride to Takijiri. This is the official starting point for your trek on the Nakahechi section of the Kumano Kodo. The trail climbs steadily uphill, leading you through lush forest to the ridge-top village of Takahara.

• Distance: 4 km / 2.5 miles
• Ascent/Descent: +402m (1328ft)/-169m (561ft)
• Accommodation:

  Organic Hotel Kirinosato-Takahara | Hotel – Kirinosato offers friendly service, magnificent views from each room and delicious meals with locally produced organic rice and vegetables. There are three Japanese-style tatami-mat rooms and five western-style rooms for guests. All guestrooms have private ensuite toilet; guests use the two gender-segregated communal bathing rooms. Water for the hot spring bath comes from Wataze Onsen in Hongu. Bathing is available from 3pm to 11pm and from 7am to 9am. If you are staying in a tatami-mat room, please lay out your futon yourself in the evening. Wifi is available in the lobby area.

  Kikyoya | Ryokan – It’s family run and offers Japanese cuisine.  With this option the guest would be able to walk as normal, with just a slightly longer walk to descend to their accommodation at Kurisugawa. It has 6 Japanese-style tatami-mat rooms and there are share toilets on each floor. Shared baths are segregated by gender and available until 10pm, showers are available 24 hours. Wi-Fi is not available.

  Suzushiro | Cabin, Lodge – Suzushiro is a cozy cottage in Takahara owned by the young Kashiwagi family. The views from the facility and expansive deck are fantastic. There is a bedroom, sitting room, loft, mini-kitchen, toilet, and bath.

Today you traverse the Nakaheji, a route recognized as one of Japan’s National Historic Roads. The path features well-defined trails and ancient flagstones designed to ease the mountain climbs. Enjoy an undulating walk through vibrant rural scenery and pass several sacred oji shrines before descending into the peaceful village of Chikatsuyu.

• Distance: 10 km / 6 miles
• Ascent/Descent: 555m (1820ft)/581m(1906ft)
• Accommodation:

  Happiness Chikatsuyu | Country House – The cozy cottage has a Japanese style room, small loft, dining room, and kitchen. The dining room features a giant wooden table.  The windows look onto the surrounding garden planted with a variety of flowering trees. Guests often enjoy sitting on the deck or in the private gazebo taking in the peaceful location. 

  Chikatsuyu Minshuku | Minshuku – Minshuku Chikatsuyu is a small guesthouse located in the Chikatsuyu village along the Tonda River. The Hisui-no-yu onsen is a hot spring bath next to the inn. The water is famous for its smooth texture. One of their specialty dishes is ayu (sweet fish) rice. The view from the dining room opens onto the river and mountains beyond. 

  Minshuku Nonaka Sanso | Minshuku – Minshuku Nonaka Sanso is a family run guesthouse in the Nonaka area of Nakahechi village next to route 311.  An annex cottage with an Irori hearth is the focus of the minshuku, where meals are sometimes taken.  There is a river running behind the property. In the spring, fireflies dance with the sparks from the fire. They have Japanese style shared bathrooms which are gender segregated.

Prepare for a demanding but spectacular day of trekking. A significant climb leads you through the mountains to the Mikoshi-touge pass. From the summit, the trail levels out as you approach the Kumano Hongu Taisha, the sacred grand shrine at the center of the Kii mountain range. In Japanese mythology, this area is known as the entrance to the “spirit world.” After visiting the shrine, take a local bus to Yunomine Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest natural hot spring villages.

• Distance: 24 km / 15 miles (shorter options available via bus)
• Ascent/Descent: 1070m (3510ft) /1305m (4281ft)
• Accommodation:

  Minshuku Kuraya | Minshuku – Minshuku Kuraya is a small guesthouse with over 100 years of history and features traditional Japanese construction. It is located by the creek in the middle of the Yunomine Onsen hot spring village. Minshuku Kuraya serves local “family” meals and the hot spring bath is open 24 hours. The communal dining room is surrounded by sliding shoji paper screen doors. The guestrooms look out onto the village. For those looking for an authentic guesthouse with Japanese architecture, this is a good choice.

  Fujiya Ryokan – Overlooking the Ōta River, this polished hot spring hotel surrounded by lush landscape is a minute’s walk from the Kawayu Hot Spring and 5 km from the Kumano Hongū Taisha Shinto shrineOverlooking the Ōta River, this polished hot spring hotel surrounded by lush landscape is a minute’s walk from the Kawayu Hot Spring and 5 km from the Kumano Hongū Taisha Shinto shrine

  Yunomineso | Ryokan – Located a few hundred meters south of the Yunomine Onsen village on a ridge above the Yomuragawa River. It is a quiet accommodation and serves a variety of different set meals that compliment the seasons. All of the rooms are Japanese style. There are both indoor and outdoor baths, each with very good quality water. 

Take a well-earned rest in your onsen Ryokan. You can spend the day sightseeing or relaxing in the thermal waters. For those who wish to keep exploring, optional short hikes are available to the Akagi-goe or Dainichi-goe shrines to further experience the spiritual atmosphere of the region.

• Akagi-goe: 7.8km ( 4.8miles) – Ascent/Descent: 447m (1466ft) /251m (823ft)
• Dainichi-goe: 2.8km (1.7miles) – Ascent/Descent: 261m (856ft) / 186m (610ft)
• Accommodation:

  Minshuku Kuraya | Minshuku – Minshuku Kuraya is a small guesthouse with over 100 years of history and features traditional Japanese construction. It is located by the creek in the middle of the Yunomine Onsen hot spring village. Minshuku Kuraya serves local “family” meals and the hot spring bath is open 24 hours. The communal dining room is surrounded by sliding shoji paper screen doors. The guestrooms look out onto the village. For those looking for an authentic guesthouse with Japanese architecture, this is a good choice.

  Fujiya Ryokan – Overlooking the Ōta River, this polished hot spring hotel surrounded by lush landscape is a minute’s walk from the Kawayu Hot Spring and 5 km from the Kumano Hongū Taisha Shinto shrineOverlooking the Ōta River, this polished hot spring hotel surrounded by lush landscape is a minute’s walk from the Kawayu Hot Spring and 5 km from the Kumano Hongū Taisha Shinto shrine

  Yunomineso | Ryokan – Located a few hundred meters south of the Yunomine Onsen village on a ridge above the Yomuragawa River. It is a quiet accommodation and serves a variety of different set meals that compliment the seasons. All of the rooms are Japanese style. There are both indoor and outdoor baths, each with very good quality water. 

A pre-arranged taxi transfer takes you to Koguchi to begin the final, glorious section of the trail. Crossing the Ogumotorigoe Pass, you may catch a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean on the horizon. The path descends to Nachi-san, home to the Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine and the thundering Nachi-taki, the highest waterfall in Japan. A short bus ride then takes you to the coast at Kii-Katsuura to mark the end of your coast-to-coast pilgrimage.

• Distance: 14 km / 9 miles
• Ascent/Descent: 1135m (3723ft) /860m (2821ft)
• Accommodation:

  Manseiro | Inn – Manseirou is located in front of the pier and offers the views of Katsuura Bay and old streets of Katsuura. Manseiro’s garden features open air baths, while Chiyo no Yu-bath changes colors according to the seasons and weather.

  Nakanoshima | Hotel – UPGRADE HOTEL – Hot-spring baths, massages and a summertime outdoor pool can be enjoyed at Nakanoshima, located a 3-minute ferry ride from Kanko Sanbashi pier. Traditional Kaiseki dinners and Japanese rooms with views of Nachi Bay are featured. Guests sleep on futon bedding on a tatami (woven-straw) floor. All rooms are air-conditioned and include an LCD TV, an en suite bathroom, green tea and Yukata robes.

Spend your morning exploring the coastal charms of Kii-Katsuura before boarding the train for the 4-hour journey to Osaka. Known as Japan’s culinary capital and the heart of the Kansai region, Osaka offers a vibrant urban contrast to the quiet mountain trails of the past five days.